There are a handful of questions I am asked repeatedly as a climber specializing in wide crack climbing in particular inverts. These questions include: why do climb upside-down, how do you get upside-down, how do you get right-side up and why do you climb nothing but offwidths? Why do I climb only offwidths? Well, I don’t climb only offwidths. How many times have you walked up to a crag and seen 100’ much less 1000’ of pure offwidth? There are […]
Offwidth climbers have the reputation for being bad-asses who take joy in pain and suffering. So, this winter when the nurse asked me if I wanted a sedative before a cortisone injection for a severely herniated disk at L4-L5 I opted out. As she set up an IV the doctor explained to me: “We need to inject this cortisone in a very small space and there is a good chance of nicking the nerve with the needle. If I hit […]
Last Spring I concluded a pilgrimage to Craig Luebben’s (1960-2009) top ten desert offwidth FAs as a tribute to him. I started in the Spring of 2010 with an innocent looking list, 50 rolls of tape for my hands, a few hundred caffeinated Clif Shot Bloks, Motrin, a huge rack of big cams and Big Bros, elbow pads, knee pads, liquid bandage, topical lidocaine patches, duct tape for shredded clothing and a few bottles of tequila. Read the story and see Andrew Burr’s awesome photos in Climbing Magazine online here: Craig’s List […]
I am honored to be in the Women of Climbing Calender 2012 by Sharp End Publishing. One of the first women’s climbing calendars of its kind, the 2012 Women of Climbing Calendar is Sharp End Publishing’s 14th installment of stunning climbing photography from around the globe. Thanks so much to Sharp End for creating such a wonderful tribute to the women of climbing and show-casing some of climbing’s finest photographers!
Seeing as I wasn’t keeping a blog until recently, I am going to recount a bit about Indian Creek from last Spring. I started the season in the Creek with a few Moab locals including local crusher Herb Crimp. In early March, we hiked to the Beer Wall where Herb immediately established Herb’s King Cobra — a bold and wild new line. He rated it 5.11+ which was deemed to be quite a sand-bag by the parties struggling to repeat it in the next […]
In Climbing 179, Craig Luebben (1960-2009) described offwidths: “Wider than your fist yet too small to accommodate your body, an offwidth requires more effort per inch of stone than perhaps any other type of climbing. Hence, offwidthing is the most despised, feared, avoided, and dissed genre of rock climbing.”