Outside Television Athlete Profile

Thanks to Sender Films and Outside TV for creating this piece for Outside television which has fantastic footage of a few of my favorite FAs including he Event Horizon in Indian Creek, UT and the Dark Passenger in Long’s Canyon, UT. It also has some great training footage from the Peak Fitness Center in Missoula, MT.

The weight-vest I am wearing in the training segment of the video is the HyperVest PRO from Hyperwear. I am 105lbs and train with a 12-20lb weight vest for certain phases of my offwidth training program (read more about my training HERE). I often do my metabolic training including Plyometrics wearing the weight vest to simulate the rack I carry on wide cracks which can often be nearly 20lbs. I have tried a few vests but the HyperVest Pro has a better fit and keeps the weight more evenly distributed throughout my core rather than on my shoulders. Not only is it more comfortable and less bulky than other vests it even looks pretty damn stylish.

I am also using the TRX Suspension Trainer in the video which is very effective for core and shoulder stabilization in climbers. There is no footage in the video but I also spend 4-5 days a week doing Pilates. The Pilates Cadillac is fantastic training for the contorted foot-over-your-head positions required for the inverted style of offwidth climbing such as on The Event Horizon. There are many styles of Pilates but my personal favorite is Balanced Body school of Pilates.

At the point of no return on The Event Horizon 5.13 in Indian Creek, UT Photo © Andrew Burr
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3 comments

  1. Hey Pamela,
    It looks awesome and insane but also quite interesting and I would love to try it but I’m based in UK at the moment and I don’t think there’s much offwidth climbs around!
    I will be travelling to Germany for some winter climbing and maybe when the snow and ice melts there will be something.
    But as a total newbie to offwidth, where would be a good starting point to try it and see if it’s for me?
    Cheers, Poul

    1. Poul I am always happy to hear that someone wants to try climbing offwidths. Unfortunately there aren’t any offwidth destinations in the UK. However, I have heard that there are a few wide cracks in Wimberry, Brimham and Llanberis Pass. A great way to get an idea if you like offwidths is to seek out bouldering problems that have wide cracks in them. Sometimes there will be boulders with offwidth cracks at the base of routes and you can try them with a crash pad before you go invest in huge cams! There is one famous wide crack in the UK called Ray’s Roof (E7 6c). It is a classic gritstone off-width and was first climbed in 1977 by American Ray Jardine. It has only seen a few repeats since then. Unfortunately Ray’s Roof is not a good introduction to offwidth climbing but certainly one of the best in the UK. If you really want to climb offwidths you need to get to America and go to Vedauwoo, Wyoming — the American wide crack mecca, and/or Indian Creek in Utah which has hundreds of beautiful long vertical wide cracks. Let me know what you find and feel free to ask more questions! Cheers, Pamela

      1. Thanks Pamela, I like the idea about testing myself on boulder problems before investing in lots of specialised gear (not that I don’t love shopping for new gear 😉 )
        As mentioned I will be placed in Southern Germany/North Italy for a while and it will be mostly ice and alpine climbing while there’s something in condition but I will remember to look out for boulder offwidths to return to and a US climbing trip is high on the wish list 🙂
        Have a wonderful day, Poul

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