Last Spring I concluded a pilgrimage to Craig Luebben’s (1960-2009) top ten desert offwidth FAs as a tribute to him. I started in the Spring of 2010 with an innocent looking list, 50 rolls of tape for my hands, a few hundred caffeinated Clif Shot Bloks, Motrin, a huge rack of big cams and Big Bros, elbow pads, knee pads, liquid bandage, topical lidocaine patches, duct tape for shredded clothing and a few bottles of tequila.
Read the story and see Andrew Burr’s awesome photos in Climbing Magazine online here: Craig’s List
Craig’s Top Ten
Long Canyon, Utah
Ralph (5.12b), with Kennan Harvey and Dave Anderson, 1994
The Mayor (5.12a), with Topher Donahue, 1995
Done Lubin’ (5.11), with Jim Dunn, 1994
Sidewinder (5.11), with Thor Keiser, 1990
Dragon’s Lair (5.11), with Greg Murphy, 1989
Slither & Scream (5.11), with Sari Schmetterer, 1991
Indian Creek, Utah
The Dentist’s Chair (5.11d), early 1990s
Tooth Fairy (5.10+), with Kevin Chase (same day as Dentist Chair)
River Road, Utah
Sorcerer’s Crossing (5.12a), with Jeff Achey, 1994
Potash Road, Utah
Offwidths Are Beautiful (5.10), with George Hurley, Earl Wiggins, Katy Cassidy, and Sari Schmetterer, 1988
Most Visionary of the Top Ten: The Sorcerer’s Crossing 5.12a
Below, the chimney fell away into darkness, and above it pinched ominously to a flared 5.11+ offwidth…Above the pinch, thinking I was home free, I faced the crux: a sandy, flared, wet, overhanging – and for Dunn, unprotected – offwidth. I happily placed two Bigbros and pressed up this frightful gash to the top of The Sorcerer. ~Craig Luebben Climbing 179
The Sorcerer’s Crossing 5.12a was established by Craig Luebben with Jeff Achey in 1994. The final pitch was originally part of the Sorcerer, a three pitch route up the left side of the Sorcerer formation on River Road. The Sorcerer was established in 1977. Initially, Jimmy Dunn and Chris Wood climbed the three wide pitches with a few points of aid. Dunn returned the next year with Leonard Coyne and freed the route at 5.11+. The soul and ego crushing Sorcerer and Sorcerer’s Crossing are visionary and spectacular routes.
A special thanks to all those who climbed, belayed, took photos and provided stories about Craig. It wasn’t possible without you: Andrew Burr, Jay Anderson, Pat Kingbury, Jeff Achey, Dougald McDonald, Sylvia Luebben, Malcolm Daly, Kennan Harvey, Topher Donahue, Sari Schmetterer, Craig DeMartino, Greg Murphy, George Hurley and Kevin Chase. Also a big thank you to Nathan Smith and Edelweiss for their continued support as well as indestructible ropes.